Mostar [1] is a city in Bosnia and Herzegovina, formerly one of the most ethnically diverse cities in the country, and today suffering geographical division of ethnic groups. The city was the most heavily bombed of any Bosnian city during the war in Bosnia and Herzegovina following the breakup of then-Yugoslavia. At the beginning of the war, the city lost many important buildings and structures through air strikes; later, once the formerly-aligned forces turned into enemies, a thorough destruction of this old city began, including the destruction of Mostar's architectural (as well as cultural and spiritual) heart: The Old Bridge (Stari Most). Mostar has been most famous for this beautiful historic Ottoman-style bridge, which spanned the Neretva river in what is considered the historic center of the city. Through combined efforts with the international community, The Old Bridge has been rebuilt (completed in 2004, almost 11 years after its destruction), using some of its original pieces recovered from the Neretva river. A significant portion of the city has been rebuilt and visitors might be suprised to see that this formerly war-torn city is a lively and beautiful destination once again, particularly the area within and around the old town. Still, many visible signs of Mostar's troubled recent history remain.
[edit] Get in
The Bus and Train stations are adjacent and are located close to the heart of Mostar.
[edit] By bus
There are two bus stations in Mostar, one next to the train station and another not too far away, also in the north part of the city.
Frequent buses run between Mostar and Sarajevo (2 hours, hourly), Ploče, Dubrovnik (2 per day, 100 HRK, 3-4 hours), Split (costs 128 kuna), Zagreb, Podgorica, Banja Luka, Belgrade (2 per day) and most cities in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Timetables are available online [2].
Note that the stop in Mostar for the bus from Podgorica, which continues to Banja Luka, is several kilometres from the city centre on an expressway. A taxi from there costs 10 KM. Call Mostar Taxi Adis, (+387 61 652 149), although English is not well understood.
For Daily bus to and from Mostar can be found online [3]
[edit] By train
Trains run between Mostar and Sarajevo (3 per day), Zagreb (2 per day), and Ploče (2 per day).
The scenery on the train ride between Mostar and Sarajevo is stunning, passing through rugged terrain with a series of tunnels, U-turns and viaducts. It is therefore more picturesque as well as cheaper to make this journey by train (one-way ticket costs 9.90 KM) rather than by bus. However, the facilities of the train stations and most of the trains, a donation from the Swedish government, are rather dated, and the bus provides a more comfortable journey.
[edit] By plane
Mostar International Airport (IATA: OMO) is located in the village of Ortješ, 7.4 km south southeast of Mostar's railway station. There are currently only charter flights from/to Italy which are transporting pilgrims on their way to Međugorje ( popular site of religious catholic pilgrimage). However, there are currently no scheduled flights operating to/from this airport.
A smaller bridge in Mostar's old town
- Stari Most - The Old Bridge. Originally built by the Turks in 1566, it was destroyed in 1993, but rebuilt in 2004. The bridge is the highlight of Mostar and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The bridge is 21m high and you will frequently see members of the Mostar Diving Club dive off the bridge. It is customary to give the divers a few KMs after they make the jump. edit
- Old Bridge Museum, (Next to the bridge). Includes exhibits on the history of the bridge, a panoramic view from the top, and entrance into the excavations below, along with a video detailing the reconstruction of the bridge. Entry: 5 KM. edit
- Muslibegovica House, (located near the Karadoz - Bey’s Mosque), [4]. Open for visitors 15 April – 15 October from 10AM-6PM. Constructed 300 years ago, it is considered the most beautiful house from Ottoman period in the Balkans. The house is comprised of separate quarters for women (women’s courtyard– haremluk), and men (men’s courtyard – selamluk. Unlike earlier architectural styles, this house resembled a four-storey house built around the centre. Double-arched entrance with the central pillar reveals Mediterranean influence. The house preserved authentic monumental structure, items and documents providing an insight into the life of a wealthy bey family from the time. In addition to museum exhibition, visitors are invited to take traditional beverages or cookies, or spend a night in this authentic surrounding. edit
- History Museum of Herzegovina. Open 8-16. Closed Mondays.. Has a small collection of photographs from various phases of Mostar history, including a small exhibit on a native son who appeared to have served as Tito's former Foreign Minister for a space. Also shows an excellent video on the recent history of the Old Bridge. KM 5. edit
- Koski Mehmed Pasina Dzamija (Koski Mehmed Pasha Mosque), (Old town). Small but simply pretty Ottoman mosque built in 1618. Climb to the minaret to see a great view over the town. Entry: 3 KM, with minaret access: 5 KM. edit
- Karadozbegova Dzamija (Karadjoz-Bey Mosque), (Old town.). A modest Ottoman mosque built in 1557. Entry: 3 KM, with minaret access: 5 KM. edit
- Cemetery, (next to Karadjoz/Bey Mosque in the Old town). A park turned into a cemetery in 1993 when the dead needed a place to be buried and other cemetaries were inacessible due to the war. edit
- Biscevica House, Biscevica Street. An Ottoman house, where you only can see the few rooms in upstairs. 4 KM. edit
- Watch locals dive off the Old Bridge. Members of the Mostar Diving Club will dive off the bridge into the emerald green waters. Do not attempt this yourself. The waters of river are at a constant 12C and going suddenly from 30C to 12C can cause a heart attack amongst even the fittest. The young local men diving would hose themselves down first in order to lower their body temperature before diving. edit
- Walk Along the Former Front-line, on Bulevar Revolucije. Here, in 1993 the city was divided between Croats on the West and Bosniaks on the Eastern side. It is a surreal and sobering experience to see the bombed out buildings which still stand in this area only 5 meters diveded . edit
The Bosnia and Herzegovina Convertible Mark (BAM) is pegged to the Euro at a rate of 1 EUR = 1.95583 BAM. Shops and restaurants will accept Euros at a 1:2 rate with the Bosnian KM and Croatian kuna are also widely accepted in Mostar though at a very unfavouable exchange rate.
[edit] Budget
- Grill TIMA, Old Town (In heart of Old Town). Best place in Mostar to eat Cevapcici tourist top meal for just €3. edit
- Pizzeria Roma, Stjepana Radića 21 (near Mercator shopping centre, not far from Zrinjski stadium). Best pizza in Mostar, great service and reasonable price. If you are a pizza fan, this pizzeria is "a must go" place. edit
- Palma, A. Santica (Just outside the Old town, close to Neretva river). A great place to have cheap and good cakes (starting 1KM), ice cream and enjoy air conditioning on a hot day. edit
[edit] Mid-range
- Dado, 7rg 1 Maja b.b, ☎ +387 36 552 043. Delicious traditional Bosnian fare. €9 for 3 course meal including wine. edit
- Hindin Han, Jusovina bb, ☎ +387 36 581 054. Highly recommended, although service is slow. edit
- Kulluk, Kurluk 1,with direct view on Stari Most, ☎ +387 36 551 716. edit
- Labirint, Kujundjiluk bb, with direct view on Stari Most. edit
- MM, across from Hotel Bristol on West side. Decent rendition of a mixed grill. KM5-20. edit
[edit] Splurge
- Veranda, (In the Biosphere Shopping Center), ☎ +387 36 512 245, [5]. edit
Many of nice lounge bars are located in the Old Town.
- OKC Abrasevic (Omladinski Kulturni Centar Abrašević), Alekse Šantića 25, [6]. Bar with alternative concerts and other art events, founded on the former front line of the last civil War. On the second story of the bar is a small book-exchange. edit
- Ali Baba's Cave. This bar has drinks and hookah; the ambiance is great as the lounge was built directly in a cavern. You won't be able to miss it while walking around the bazaar in Mostar's Old Town, as there is loud music emanating from the entrance. edit
- Studio Lounge, M. Balorde (Old town). A cool open-air bar on top of a high building with jazzy/world music and a great view over the town. Sometimes live bands; keep your eyes open to see posters when walking in the Old town. edit